Finally got to the Legend, driving to it along a completely abandoned stretch of new laid concrete, like an airstrip, with palms and the mountains beyond. Stunning scenery in fact! Ninh Binh is a bit of a ghost town, with many abandoned resorts and half constructed boulevards and huge hotels. The Legend is no exception, stuck in the middle of absolutely nowhere, painted white. It is bound to go bust. We were paying $36 per night. A party of western tourists were leaving as we tumbled out of the taxi.
After breakfast (extra) in the dining room (fried eggs, sausage slivers, full range of fruit, day old cheese, fake mini croissants), we spent all of the rest of the morning (it was about 7.30am) poolside. The pool was wonderful, blue and clean, up until we discovered the dead baby bird in it. Did not put me off over much, but it was a little upsetting I must say! However poolside was enough, we sunbathed. I was religious in my sun cream and so got away with it. 19 yr old silly Sara got predictably and completely sunburned. It was extremely hot. I fell asleep twice. Then I had a foot massage for one hour for about $12. Plus 50c tip. (10,000 VND). The foot massage included legs, arms, hands and neck and included that joint snapping trick. It was done by a young woman whose grip I think defeats even Mum's! She had a grip like a lobster in fact, and nails. I have yet to find a perfect foot massage. More like Bodylage, with more toe attention!
We checked in proper around 12pm into the most wondrous rooms. Absolutely huge beds, my "single" was a double, big enough to sleep 4, all beautifully clean, dark wooden floors, TV, safe, marble bathroom. Air con. Amazing. Even a kettle. Paper slippers and a robe. Turn down service later left a bottle of water wrapped in a bow and a good night local fairy tale!
We headed out for lunch. Taxi again through that stunning, bald, scenery around the hotel, into town to a trip advisor recommended spot. It was a roadside family run restaurant. They were absolutely sweet and it was absolutely boiling. Julia reined in her rudeness, just, when even she could see how hard they were trying, however it was not a great meal! As usual crispy fried spring rolls were by far the best option. cold noodles again. roast chicken was hilarious, just bit of roast chicken strips on a plate. even funnier was the fact that Pernille, who'd ordered it, was expecting some delicious plateful, a la Hanoi's extremely expensive Avalon sky bar. The sister did the hosting, no English, mother took the orders, very carefully, no English, weird pricing system on the menu. Apparently Dad does the cooking and he came out and smiled away at us (nicely). Second sister, with English, driving force, arrived home and was terribly accommodating. She got us a taxi. I told her we had seen the restaurant in Trip Advisor and she asked us to make recommendation. I thought they were amazingly kind. There was a group of French backpackers next to us, they left and were replaced by a Canadian couple. All very nice, though Sara was a pain eaves dropping on them. Best moment was when a young bother and sister arrived on a cycle cart opposite and started climbing a tree. Big sister went up first with a small net on a pole - and started picking mangoes! It was a mango tree. They were all lovely and green. Then little bother, 7 or 8, got up off the cycle seat with a bag and took what sis handed down. It was enchanting. I must remember what a mango tree looks like.
After lunch we headed to an ice cream parlour recommended by Sister at the restaurant, which was not good. We left quickly and bought cornetto types from corner store, then wandered along the wide streets. The air is much better out of Hanoi, clearer and the quality of living must be better accordingly. The trees line the roads and there is much less traffic off the main road. Spotted the ox cart at this point. Very hot so we gave up, 4.30pm and headed for the hotel. Had a bath and was too tired to even skype Dad, just wrote journal. Bath was huge and amazing and wonderful. The shower curtain was blue and had dolphins on it. Sums up the whole weekend really.
Attempted to arrange the tour for the following day. Went down for supper at 7.30pm and had a not amazing steak. Went up to boiling hot 10 th floor bar. I had a margarita. Surreal does not begin to describe being in an enclosed 10th floor jazz bar, complete with piano, not a soul around, fans, no passion fruit(!) in the middle of a plain full of deserted half built hotels. If the bar had been open to the elements, it would have been spectacular. As it was I could see just a few stars from my bed before I was out like a light.
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