Neak Poan means 'The Temple of the Intertwined Nagas' and is a late 12th century Buddhist temple. It is a large square pool surrounded by four smaller pools, each fed by a particular gargoyle head: a humans head, a horse, a lion and an elephant. These represent the four great rivers of Buddhist cosmology watering the lake. The water no longer runs of course, however there is water in the pools.
In the middle of the central pool is a circular 'mountain' encircled by the titular nagas. The most interesting part however of this glorified 'Italian Gardens' is that at each of the four points in the central pool there was a statue. Only one remains, of the many-legged, flying horse Balaha, a form of Lokeshvara, (or Avalokiteshvara) in which he rescued shipwrecked sailors.
The pool was used for ritual purification rites. Preah Neak Poan also was part of Preah Khan's own Baray, called Jayatataka, which now has a little water in it again.
Banteay Srei is a small ('miniature') temple of distinctive pink sandstone surrounded by an exquisite moat and with virtuoso carving. Partly because of this it is referred to locally as 'the women's temple', in fact that is what Banteay Srei actually means (modern name). "Ishvarapura" was the original name, dedicated to both Shiva and Vishnu.
A processional walkway flanked by 'lingas' (I assume) or possibly lotus buds, which would be a nicer touch. I did not go up to visit Kbal Spean, 'the River of a Thousand Lingas', though you can visit the carved riverbed on a trip to Beng Melea.
The stone carving here is amazing. Every leaf and petal is clear cut and executed with thorough attention to detail giving astonishing visual impact. It is such a shame the artists name will never be known. There is even a deliberately designed progressive reduction in the size of the internal buildings. The lathe-turned stone pillars on the windows here are carved and decorated too.
It is also one of the earliest temples, dedicated in 967. The first enclosure contains two libraries with multi-curved pediments covered in vast amounts of decoration, an architectural innovation.
The statues too were carved with immense skill and one in particular, of Shiva and Parvati, are now in the National Museum. Banteay Srei has its own visitor centre and shops as its so far out, so I had a bit of a break. The metal of the camera in my hands was hot.
On the way back we passed the Cambodian Landmine Museum (which I did not want to see) and the Angkor Butterfly Centre (which I did). Unfortunately by now I had no cash at all so 'twas not possible. The scenery however was amazing as we drove through the Eastern Baray. I ate my croissant from breakfast in the tuk-tuk as we motored through the warm air.
Banteay Samre was my last destination, set east of the Eastern Baray and there were the fewest people here.
This temple was built by Suryavarman II and has been looted due to its isolation but has been restored somewhat.
It has a well preserved southern library and a unique inner moat, now dry.
After the carving and colour of Banteay Srei it's laterite was less inspiring architecturally but very quiet.
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