Rejoining our tuk-tuks, accompanied by Sython on a separate moped,we motored off through the 'Victory Gate', a gate exiting Angkor Thom to the east. Not the Eastern Gate itself, I think it includes victory symbology, for victory over the Chams (by Jayavarman). We stopped for a rather flyblown lunch, surrounded by groups of young American teenagers on what seem to be school tours, and, after I realised both my camera batteries were running down, we headed for the temple I had most of all been wanting to see: Ta Prohm.
On the way we crossed a 'spean', a bridge. There were a number of them here in Angkorian times and some of them have only recently been superseded by modern bridges. We passed Thommamon and Chau Say Tevoda (dates unknown but with iconographically comparable 'devata' - female divinities - to Angkor Wat) without seeing them and also Ta Keo another huge pyramid temple, possibly built by Jayavarman V, currently undergoing reconstruction and looking extremely impressive. It's size rivals Angkor Wat but it is unadorned and was never finished in ancient times, in fact it is the least finished of all the temples, providing insight into construction methods. Apparently it was considered ill-omened when lightening struck during its construction.
Eventually we arrived at Ta Prohm. This is the most well known of the invaded temples. Invaded by jungle that is. It is also where they filmed the second or third (?) Tomb Raider movie. The Lonely Planet editor for Cambodia was one of the fixers for this movie, as such he has a very amusing paragraph in the guide on the various locations. Ta Prohm being the main and most famous one.
Ta Prohm lived up entirely to expectations. I was so enthusiastic I wandered off on my own and ended up doing the circuit backwards. We saw several of the grand trees and roots holding up the galleries. Including the most famous, the one devouring the eastern 'gopura' (entrance gate) and also the one framing a doorway - that featured in the movie. We had a group photo here. It is an ongoing battle to keep the jungle out. Man builds, nature reclaims inexorably. This is how the explorers of old would have found the temples (maybe a little less manicured. At Beng Melea or Koh Kor it is possible to see the temples in their pure state). Infinite are the arguments of the mages on this subject too, should the temple be left like this or like elsewhere (but not everywhere) should the vegetation be cleared?
I presume most of these are 'ficus' of some sort. Banyan? There is a famous shot of an Apsara just peeking through a gap between some roots before disappearing entirely like the rest of her gallery. She is smiling her mona lisa smile (the Khmer got there before Leonardo I reckon ) of course. Day of the Dancing Dinosaurs again. My heart rejoices.
Ta Prohm is also a huge site the size of a small town and underwent immediate modification on completion, resulting in a 'dense and complex' layout. It was dedicated to Jayavarman VII's mother in 1186AD. It is rare in that it includes relevant inscriptions about the temple inhabitants and showrunners. Almost 80,000 people were required to maintain the site including 2700 officials and 615 dancers. It was the administrative centre of 102 'hospitals' according to some interpretations. It was originally called the Rajavihara or 'monastery of the king'. In my studies I learned to distrust the number 80,000 in relation to Greek and Roman battles as they would often, it is thought, use this figure to illustrate 'a lot'. However, knowing the original name of a place such as this, in all its alien-ness - extraordinary.
To finish off our grand tour we swung past Srah Srang, 'the Pool of Ablutions', and Banteay Kdei, a well preserved temple from Jayavarman's time. Srah Srang was a (comparatively) small reservoir and is the only one, along with part of the Western Baray still holding water. Archaeologists propose that it was surrounded by a colonnade. It has a decorated 'landing platform' with 'Song' lions and nagas. Banteay Kdei has a very photogenic roof :) Unfortunately I have no photos of my own of these. These are downloaded.
Finally we visited Prasat Kavan which was an early brick temple (921AD and therefore Hindu, Dedicated to Vishna in fact) founded, unusually, by a family of high officials, not royalty. It is an ensemble of five 'prasat' (towers) on a single terrace level and contains some important bas-reliefs and an inscription (which is extremely badly looked after as anyone viewing the carvings brushes up against it). Again, not my photos.
We finished the day at Le Tigre de Papier on Pub Street. My suggestion, it had good wifi and pizza so went down well. We then went to the night market where I bought a lot of things I should not. T-shirts for $3 are hard to resist.
No comments:
Post a Comment