Day 40 - Angkor Wat

I've done it! Come halfway across the planet and seen Angkor Wat! That sounds so prosaic when the memories of architectural and spiritual magnificence loom large in the mind. However, the effort it takes to get here and bearing the heat in which the ruins ferment and swelter, are totally worth it.

After the spectacle of yesterday evenings sunset I campaigned for sunrise too and was surprisingly successful. So we were up at 4.30am to be bundled into tuk-tuks and driven through the dark streets of Siem Reap, out to Angkor Wat itself.  

As with many things in Cambodia, description of Angkor Wat may be beyond me. It is the largest religious building/complex in the world and has been so since the 12th century. It was built by Surayavarman II, intended as both palace and mausoleum, it was never used as such as he died in battle against the Dai Viet (Vietnamese). "...varman" means "armoured". It is not a dynastic reference.

So here is sunrise at Angkor Wat:

Again the clouds did not cooperate. However it could not have mattered less. The sound of the cicadas was incredible. We viewed the sunrise from the northwest pool. The only one with water in it. We had been joined by our guide, Pech, (pronounced 'Vish'). He was very entertaining and knowledgable. He was originally a street kid and has only his mother. 

Lion guardians.

The kingly reception area.

The view back towards the western entrance and causeway.  Almost all the temples are constructed on the east-west axis. According to Lonely Planet "the spatial dimensions of Angkor Wat parallel the lengths of the four ages (Yuga) of classical Hindu thought. Thus the visitor to Angkor Wat who walks the causeway to the main entrance and through the courtyards to the final main tower..is metaphorically travelling back to the first age of the creation of the universe."

Temple mountains also generally mirror the spatial universe, the central towers being representative of Mt Meru with surrounding peaks. The lower courtyards are the continents and the moat is the ocean. "The seven-headed naga becomes a symbolic rainbow bridge for man to reach the abode of the gods".

The first level gallery, wherein there are bas-reliefs. 

An Apsara welcomes us inside. Apsara means 'heavenly nymph' and they were created during the Churning of the Ocean of Milk. 

They had stone turning lathes.

The bas-reliefs. These can be looked up quite easily. We saw all of them, including the most important: the Churning of the Ocean of Milk.

The restored cloister roof. Wooden. Only one original beam remains.

Journeying back through time. The first level courtyards. Past the (now mostly empty) Gallery of a Thousand Buddhas.

The way up to heaven or the beginning of time. It's meant to be difficult.

Second level courtyard. With the Angkor hot air balloon peeking up behind.

The view from the top, westwards.

The second level gallery roofs.

Third level courtyard.

Leaving Angkor Wat by the south Elephant Gate.

We went for breakfast just over the road from here. Met two very sweet boys selling postcards who had good English. Gave them 'one dollar'. This is their mantra and we sing it. "Wan dollaar".